BREITHORN WESTGIPFEL (13,661 ft). ENGLISH VERSION

2.008/31/08 and 2008/01/09

After climbing the Dôme de Neige des Écrins and Gran Paradiso, we begin moving to the sector of Monte Rosa. We'll try a course through different huts, while we climb to some others peaks over 4,000 m - 13,123 ft.

So we'll try for the first, the Peak Breithorn Westgipfel from the Hut Guide del Cervino. The access to this hut comes from Breuil-Cervinia. You can go hiking or by cable-cars, to Plateau Rosà, where the hut is situated.

It's expensive but better to move by cable-car, thus we'll do. In addition, it's not a beautiful route, so it isn't nice to go walking.

Spanish version in this link: BREITHORN WESTGIPFEL (4.164 m)


SITUATION
Border Ridge of Central Valais. Alps.



2008/08/31. CLIMB TO GUIDE OF CERVINO HUT

GUIDE OF CERVINO HUT INFORMATION
Phone number: 0039.0166.948369
Ner of places: 36
Keeping season: OPEN ALL OF THE YEAR.
For more information: RIFUGIO GUIDE DEL CERVINO


STARTING POINT
Breuil-Cervinia in the Valley of Aosta (Italy).


In the village of Breuil-Cervinia, go towards to the station of the cable car. Once you are there, ask for a ticket to the ski slopes of Plateau Rosà Testa Grigia, where the Hut Guide of Cervino is setteled. Starting from this area, you shall be able to access to Klein-Matterhorn or Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. This last one, is the most common way to climbing the Breithorn. You can go to Klein-Matterhorn directly from Switzerland, from the Village of Zermatt.

Remind that Breuil-Cervinia is a very tourist place, not as much as Zermatt. So very often is not easy to park there. You should park in a big area for free parking left-handed in a short of distance from the village.


To go to Breuil-Cervinia (Italy), see this GUIA REPSOL or VIA MICHELIN.

To go to Plateau Rosà you should use at least three different cable-car lines, very well signed:

- Breuil-Cervinia - Plan Maison
- Plan Maison - Laghi Cime Bianche
- Laghi Cime Bianche - Plateau Rosà

You only need to buy a ticket for all the travel. Buy it in the station itself, at Breuil-Cervinia. It'll take you around one hour to go there.

This instalacions are opened almost the whole year, including the summer, when they are mainly used to go to ski slopes of Plateau Rosà.

Nevertheless, call before to ask about when they are going to closed for maintennance, or check here for more information: SKI - SLOPE OF BREUIL-CERVINIA.


GOING TO THE HUT GUIDE OF CERVINO

Cervino the day before.


The next day as we said, we decided to move up using the cable car.

The station in Breuil-Cervinia.



After having a cafe, we go to the platforms.

This is the sight from he platforms.


In the cable-car to Plan Maison, our first stop.


Arrived to Plan Maison. Here is one of the signals. You won't loose yourself.

So there is no problem.


From here, we go now to Laghi Cime Bianche.


From the Laghi Cime Bianche, we can see Plateau Rosà.


After a few minutes, we take the last cable-car of the day.

Look at that, this is all manmade.


We move slowly to Plateau Rosà.


Arrived to Plateau Rosà, and many people skiing.

Soon we see the famous Klein-Mattherhorn, in front of us.


And there, the swiss ski-lopes.


Going to Hut Guide of Cervino.


We arrive to the hut. There's many people in it, mainly skiers. As we know, today are going to be closed the cable-cars of Breuil-Cervinia.

The Hut Guide of Cervino seems a pretty hotel over 3,500 m - 11,482 ft. This hut delivers snack-bar, self service and many other conforts. Not much for mounaineerings, but for skiers.

After the meal, the whole of the people leaves the hut, get back to Breuil-Cervinia. Now we are alone. The temporary keeper of the hut is Tara. She'll keep the hut untill the cable-car be opened.

The hut.



Snack-bar and self-service.


These are the rooms, on the second floor.


We spend the rest of the day watching the maps, looking to the sky and chatting to Tara.

At last in the sunset.



Amazing!!


In the night, a big storm shuts the lights off.

The weather forecast is bad. So we change our plans. Tomorrow we'll go to Breithorn, and get back to the Hut Guide de Cervino.



2008/09/01. CLIMBING BREITHORN WETSGIPFEL (4,164 m - 13,661 ft)

STARTING POINT
Hut of Guide of Cervino, opened the whole year.

CARTOGRAPHY
Sheet ner 284 Mischabel 1:50.000. Swisstopo.
Val d'Ayas Val di Gressoney Monte Rosa 1:25.000 Edited by L'Escursionista.


MAPA
Property of Swisstopo.


Property of L'Escursionista Editore.


RESUME
UNEVENESS: 800 m - 2,624,6 ft (+/-)
TOTAL DISTANCE: 10 km - 6.2 miles.
TOTAL TIME: 05:30 hours.
DIFFICULTY: Easy +.
Hazard of ice cracks. Avoid to walk out of the ski-slopes untill Klein-Matterhorn resort. 35º slopes maximum, near the Breithorn.

GEARS: The neccesary equipment for glaciers.

THE CLIMING
From this hut, the climbing to the Breithorn seems a kind of hike. You should use the most of the sky-slopes. But take care of ice cracks, and the altitude illness. Many people tries directly from Klein-Matterhorn, although they start the day in Zermatt. It's a great unevenness for one day, and you might pay the price for doing this way.

We wake up at 7:30 hours. Last night was a little stormy.

Our first dawn, over 3,500 m - 11,482 ft.



The Laghi Cime Bianche resort.


And the Klein-Matterhorn to the West.


Nice landscape, excep for the ski-lifts.


But the weather gets worse. First skiers slide down, coming from Klein-Matterhorn.

Seems pretty bad.



We are going to try to go out. So the weather will probably complicate the route.

It clears up sometimes.



We prepare beside the ski-slope.

We leave the hut behind us.



We go towards Klein-Matterhorn.


We go walking by the side of the sky-slopes. This way, we do not disturb the users of the sky-slopes.

The hut is far now.


We arrive to a fork. We take the slope at left-hand. This one goes directly to Klein-Matterhorn.

Near there, there is a crevassee in the middle of the slope. Mane sinks his foot in it. Not dangerous, but is scary.


A few metres up.


Now we can see the Summit of the Breithorn Wetsgipfel.


Near of us is Klein-Matterhorn.


This is the way until here.


But Cervino doesn't appear.


We arrive to the Breithorn Plateau. It's a great plain at 3,800 m - 12,467 ft, in front of Klein-Matterhorn. We go from here to Breithornpass. We use another sky-slope.

Peak Breithorn Westgipfel.


The Peaks Castor and the Liskamm are blured by the clouds.


Not far from Klein-Matterhorn, we turn to the left. There are footsteps towards the Breithornpass.

Breithorn and a small group of mountaineers.


This is the path, marked by footsteps.


Again the Peaks Liskamm faraway.


Klein-Matterhorn at left-hand.


We are at broad Breithornpass.


From this point, we ascend the South Face of Breithorn. Some groups of mountaineers come from the Breithorn Westgipfel and Breithorn Mittelgipfel.

Last slopes.


It's unpleasant to carry the rope sometimes.


The summit y close to us. We suffer a bit of the effects of altitude illness.

Near an ice crack of Breithorn Westgipfel.


After passing the crack, the footsteps turn to the left.

Summit of Breithorn Wetsgipfel (4,164 m - 13,661 ft).


We almost see anything, through the blizzard.

Just for a minute, we can see Klein-Matterhorn.


Zooming the station.


We decide to wait for a while.


It begins to clear slowly.


But it seems that we won't see anything else.


Now we almost see something, the glacier of Goner, in Switzerland.


And Peak Breithorn Mittelgipfel which we may try.


But at last, we decite to get back on our way, due to the bad weather.

We will have another chance.


While we watch another group of climbers.


We have to go unfortunetly.


We descend the mountain, don't see anybody.

Any problem with your boots? Look at the ice crack on his back.



There is a deep mist, and there is a weak wind.


Moving to the Breithorn PLateau.


Back again in Klein-Matterhorn, we turn to the left, using the ski-slope, down to Hut Guide the Cervino.

We sink the leg again in the big crevasse that crosses this slope, in despite of the work of the snowploughs. A little scary. We continue and after the tunnel we turn to the right, and descend by the last sky slope, by the side of the ski-lifts.

It's more clear here.


We're in Italy.


Back home.


Sweet home.


We have a great dinner with meat and polenta, too heavy for my stomach. See the weather forecast.

Tomorrow we'll try the POLLUX and afterwards, go to the Hut of Guide d'Ayas.



To look for another Climbings in English Version, click on this link: RANK OF PEAKS. ENGLISH VERSION.